Anthony Bourdain and I may find ourselves on opposite ends of the meat debate, but when it comes to edible aesthetics we’re right in sync. When traveling in more remote parts of the world this means a few rules of thumb:
1. Avoid the restaurants that you’re supposed to eat at. You know, the ones clearly targeted at tourists, catering to the more gringo appetites. If there’s a hamburger or a pizza on the menu, walk away.
2. The darker the alley, the more fluorescent lighting, the better.
3. Open air kitchens, lack of sanitation – have no fear! Something tasty is near.
But when I ate at Present Moment, just a short walk down the beach, I broke all of my own rules.
Present Moment is a yoga retreat, spa and restaurant. The first evening we settled into Troncones one of my travel companions insisted we eat dinner there. I trudged over toting my No Reservations chip on my shoulder. I had extremely mediocre expectations for this shi-shi joint and was already lamenting the loss of a meal in some fly infested ally.
Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised. Actually, more than pleasantly surprised, I was delighted, so much so I’ve eaten their twice since.
The atmosphere is beautiful — simple, monochromatic décor composed with natural materials (wood, clay, linen, palm fronds), candle light and an amazing view of sunset from seating on a raised deck that reaches out over the beach. The small bar and open-air kitchen occupy the back half of the dining deck and a Zen garden-like path separates this from another raised platform that is used for yoga classes.
And the food. The food is a revelation. Healthful, fresh, locally sourced, flavorful, sophisticated and delicious. I could enter into another tortilla reverie, this one colored a beautiful shade of azule, or dedicate a week’s worth of blogs to their menu of fresh juices and smoothies. I could wax poetic about the raw coconut noodle salad or the ginger rice. I could, but the breeze is floating through the jasmine and I think I’ve deciphered the message the waves are repeating. Siesta time, siesta time, siesta time…
